El Salvador; a Place We Want to Go Back To

Our week stay was much to short. We crammed as much into a week as one possibly could. Knowing we needed to be in Nicaragua for Christmas pushed us out of a place you could spend years in.
We stayed at Bahia del Sol, an RCI all inclusive Hotel and Marina. The service was truly magnificent. We met many new friends both boaters and other guests.
We hired Miguel and Martin to tour us around El Salvador. We were joined by Martin’s son Jonathon and Lucien a guest we met by the pool from, Vancouver. Our gracious hosts racked up the miles.
The tour began with the “Ruta de Las Flores” (Route of the flowers). Unfortunately the blossoms of the coffee plants had finished in November. We however were far from disappointed. This is a pleasant route from Sonsonate to Achuachpan that includes five destinations full of cultural traditions, history, archeological sites and natural attractions, cooler climate and gorgeous scenery. The five towns: Apaneca, Juayua, Ataco, Nahuizalco and Salcoatitan, located in the mountain range Ilamatepec - Apaneca have been named the Flower Trail due to the nice crispy weather and amazing floral scenery. The trail will take you through two departments (States/Provinces) in the western part of El Salvador: Sonsonate and Ahuachapan
Nahulzalco was founded by four families from Izalco. It is a town of Indigenous tradition which main attractions are the night markets and the crafts. The wood work was beautiful and the pottery unique. We purchased ceramic butterflies to hang in Genesis to represent El Salvador, and maracas for future music ho-downs.

Salcoatitan is a small coffee production town; its main attraction is the colonial church in front of the town square. They get three coffee crops a year. Salcoatitan was the first place in El Salvador where coffee bushes were planted in the 1860s. Salcoatitan is also well known for its many handicraft stores, even though relatively few people stop on their way.

Juayua, which means river of purple orchids in Nahuatl, is located at 1060 meters above sea level. Juayua is a city that has become so popular over the last few years and most of it is probably due in part to its many small hotels and the food festival held every weekend for the last 13 years. In Juayua you can also practice many eco-tourist activities such as hiking the Chorros de la Calera, a natural waterfall located at approximately 2 kilometers from the city center, was attempted by us but the road had been washed out and we had a difficult time getting to it. The Black Christ Church (Iglesia Del Cristo Negro) is a Catholic church built more than 500 years ago where the image of a Black Christ is solemnly venerated here as well as in the city of Esquípulas in Guatemala. The church has been rebuilt three times in the past. The Black Christ is erected at the head of the church and is carved from ironwood.

Apaneca is the highest located city in El Salvador. This is a place where some of the best and award winning coffees are produced due to its height. We have bought some and are enjoying in immensely. The city welcomes visitors with picturesque tile roofed homes and astonishing views of the mountains and hills. Apaneca means "the river of winds", and the city pays respect to the meaning of its name. Along the mountain range you can see many wind barriers made from coffee bushes which add an additional beauty to the panoramic views. Many of the berries were red and ripe adding to the colour. February is the main month for harvesting.
We ventured to Laguna Verde" (green lagoon) one of the most popular places visited in the area. This lake is a naturally spring fed. It is in a cone of a volcano. We hiked around the lake with a park employee and learnt much about the vegetation. Due to the altitude they actually have peach and wild banana trees. The water itself is piped down the volcano to the town of Apaneca. The church of Apaneca used to maintain the original structure, but unfortunately was demolished and built all over again only to have to be redone again, due to the damage done in the year 2001 earthquake and most recently by a seismic wave that originated in the Apaneca region. It was closed and services were being attended in the court yard.
We wanted to find a hotel with a pool so that we could treat Martin, Jonathon, and Miguel. We were in the mountains and it was cool. I had to put on a jacket and there was no way Ken, I or Lucien were going in the pool. The others spent hours enjoying themselves. It was a great place to stop for the evening.
The following day we headed out to do the “Ruta Arqueologica” (Archaeological Route). This route leads you to the main archaeological sites of El Salvador which are part of the Mayan World and surpluses of the colonial time. Civilizations such as the Maya, Pipil and Lenca, settled on this land where there are still remains of their ceremonial centers such as:
Joya de Cerén: Located in the Department of La Libertad, just 30 minutes
from the capital, it was declared Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in
1993. There you can see the daily life of the native dwellers that was
interrupted by the eruption of Loma Caldera Volcano around 600 AD. Joya
de Cerén has 18 edifices, ten of which have been excavated to reveal
corridors, doors, benches, steam-baths, corn fields, and vegetable gardens.
Apparently at the time of the volcanic eruption the inhabitants left their
belongings and dropped everything, even the meals that had been cooking
on the fire, to flee. Everything had been preserved by 10 layers of ash that
covered it all for over 1,400 years, until its discovery in 1976. One of the dwellings was a wealthy inhabitant with the multifamily dwellings around it. The witch doctors dwelling was still intact. They know there is more to uncover but until they can find a scientific way to preserve the clay they are leaving it buried.
San Andrés was the regional focal point for government, ceremonials, and administration from 600 to 900 AD. There is also a colonial-period indigo manufactory that was buried under by the “Playón”
Volcano’s 1658 AD. Eruption. The series of important findings at this site also include
a religious scepter made of flint .The complex spans approximately 35 hectares, and is
one of El Salvador’s largest pre-Hispanic centers. The museum attached was very interesting.
Chalchuapa, some 79 km from San Salvador, Chalchuapa is the largest archeological area in the country. In Chalchuapa there are archeological sites like Tazumal, Casa Blanca, Trapiche, Pampe and Las Victorias.
Tazumal, 80 km from San Salvador, was first noted in 1892 and was formally registered in 1940. Human settlement of Tazumal began in 1200 BC. Within the over 24-meter high structure, tombs were found containing over 116 vessels, jade jewelry, pyrite iron mirrors, ball-game artifacts, and lizard shaped ceramic figures.
Casa Blanca I believe was my favourite site. It was the first settlement that dates from 1500 BC. Remains of the fifteenth century náhuatl culture have been found there. There is a museum where four carved stones are on exhibit measuring over a meter tall. Also there is an indigo-dying workshop where visitors can create their own stamped piece, hands-on. The interpreter showed us how the indigo was crushed from the leaves of the plant and made into dye. Talk about a flash back. All of a sudden I remembered doing this very thing with my Aunt when we were both teenagers in my Grandmother’s kitchen. I had forgotten that I even knew how to do this. I believe Lynda had learnt to do it in Art class then passed it on.
The best part of El Salvador was like everywhere else we have been the people: kind, helpful anxious to show the best of their country. The beaches are wonderful, hotels modern, ready to serve.
We stayed an extra day as a special meal was being prepared for Ken and I. Our friends from Canada were invited and we dined on the best food I have tasted in my life. We did a photo op the next day and Martin’s Dish will be the cover of my travel cookbook. The friendship that Ken and I garnered with Miguel and Martin will be cherished forever and I know that we will be back to this place.
Again do not listen to the media, do not be afraid of Central America come help their economy and enjoy the people and countries.

Chef Martin (and our great friend)