We left Shoal Bay after a very wonderful 2 days and headed towards Campbell River. It was like homecoming week. The people we had met last year had not forgotten us! I am not sure why we leave such an impression where we go. Could it be we talk to everyone! We were invited by Doug to go to the Quinny ( a 100 yr old bar) that was having a jam session and it was a great time. We were invited out for dinner at Sharon and Ernie’s home. Ernie took Sharon and me out halibut fishing. I caught cod (5). Ernie, Doug and Ken went fishing a whole day. They limited out on salmon. They had a blast.
We spent a week in Campbell River. We walked and walked for exercise. It had been a long time since we could really stretch our legs. This will be a subject we need to address when we our on a long trip. I have a pilate book but I am not to sure if I can convince Ken that Yoga does come next.
We continued on to Grace Harbour. We are spending a week here then heading back to Campbell River to pick up a new mattress for the bed.
We keep channel 16 on the VHF on at all times. This has become a practice after our incident with Ken’s father a few years ago. A Pan Pan was issued for a sinking sail boat in Grace Harbour behind Jean Island. No one else was answering so the retired firefighter and myself jumped into the dink with our hand held and headed out. The sail boaters had broke a prop or sheared the shaft and where bringing on water. They had a hand pump but were not able to keep up. We waited until the Coast Guard then made a departure. I am not sure we were of any help but they didn’t feel alone and could have gotten into the dinghy if need be.
Grace Harbour has an abandoned Indian Reserve with old apple, prune and blackberries. I feel like a pioneer, picking, smoking, canning etc. Freezers are full, cupboards are full. We must be retired and getting frugal (cheap) .We are saving those pennies. We have never eaten so well, fresh fruit, vegetables and seafood galore. This is not as easy as you might think with the thought of Black bears in the area.
At he head of Grace Harbour is a forest trail that leads to a nearby lake. There’s a grassy clearing and some wide flat rocks providing access to the water.
The nights are becoming cooler and the trees are just starting to turn colour.
Last night we set the alarm clock for 0200 hr to watch the total eclipse of the moon. Just the night before the full moon was so bright.
We will be spending the next 3 weeks in the Desolation Sound / Discovery Islands area. We are in and out of cell range. We are definitely back in civilization. The anchorages are full and stern tying is a common practice. We tend to just drop the hook and spin. The water temperatures are warmer and it is not uncommon to see people swimming off their boats. Persons would only attempt when necessary up North. (Ken donned 2 wet suits in 51 degree water to untangle the dinghy rope around the prop)
Until the next post.

Billy Proctor has spent his life doing the time-honoured work of generations of up coast men – fishing, hand logging, repairing boats, clam digging and beachcombing.
We happened on to this man while walking a trail that took us to his museum in the Echo Bay area. Bill Proctor is a coastal legend and we were privileged to spend several hours learning about the past, present and the future. He has spent his last 10 years as a committed environmental activist trying to return the salmon runs back to the numbers of the past.
We met Lorna Chesluk at Port Neville and were given a tour of her family homestead. She has lived her entire life on the piece of property, with her daughter being the 4th generation. Her grandfather Hans Hansen settled there in 1891 and started one of the first Post Offices on the coast in 1895, which Lorna still runs.
Hans built his second home in 1920 for his family. Lorna’s house was built in the 80’s. While having dinner we spotted a grizzly bear across on the beach. He was not large but the distance between us may have made him seem smaller.
We then motored to Yorke Island. We anchored in a bight and by dinghy we ventured onto the island. This would to prove to be to date one of the most unique explorations we have done while out this summer. Canadian Government built a gun emplacement to protect the country’s west coast from enemy invasion. We scrambled up 500 feet past the crumbling officer’s quarters and hiked along the path. After about 30 mins, we reached the deserted bunkers and gun emplacement situated on a cliff overlooking Johnstone Strait. The walls were made in such a way that from the sea it looks like the surrounding cliffs. The date on the cement block read 1937.
We are currently at Shoal Bay. A breathtaking anchorage. We plan to stay here a few days then head towards Campbell River.

If you know the difference between a troglophile and a trogloxene, a stalactite and a stalagmite, then the North end of Vancouver Island is a place you want to visit. As we entered Bull Harbour on Hope Island we could see the caves caused by the erosion of limestone. I didn’t have the guts to boat into the caves. Waves hit hard against the entrances.
Bull Harbour was once a Coast Guard Station with several houses. Approximately 10 years ago with the advancement of rescue techniques the land was returned to the tribe from Alert Bay and the facility was relocated to Port Hardy. The government still maintains the roads, street lights, dock, water facilities, generators etc to operate the 7 homes. These homes are used as cottages. Only 2 families live full time. One, being the white caretaker that cuts the lawns and maintains the generator. Now I said government. That would be the Canadian taxpayer through monies given to Native affairs. If the families there seemed to be fishing and gathering for the winter months I might not be so derogatory. They are paid their treaty money and cannot even maintain their properties. They do make $5.00 /pp to walk to Roller beach from the boaters arriving to the island. We then had to bite our tongues as we listen how the government squatted on their land and they are the rightful keepers of the land. We won’t mention the garbage in their yards. Not cynical! Anyways we stayed anchored a few days and worked on teak before continuing to Port Hardy.

Port Hardy is a major service centre for fisherman both commercially and sportsfishing. We were surrounded by caught Halibut, salmon and various rockfish. We managed to catch 3 chinooks in 15 mins. each weighing 15 lbs. . Enough to fill the freezer. At the docks neighbouring boats give away fish that are over their limits. We scored halibut, blackcod and lingcod.

We spent 2 days in Port Hardy reprovisioning, doing laundry and touring town.

The local museum features exhibits depicting life in the area. It was quite interesting.

We ventured south and stayed the evening at Double Bay on Hanson Island. We would depart the next day to Port McNeil to pick up Elaine and Jim.

Once Jim and Elaine were aboard we headed to Alert Bay and decided the few days spent with them would be fishing and learning about the natives.

We ventured out towards Farewell Harbour. We were interrupted with a 45 min show by Houdini and her calf. Houdini is a resident Humpback Whale. She was given this name as she has birthed a calf every year for the past 3 years which we were told by the Whale Police! -Yes taxpayers we have them. "THEY MAKE SURE BOATERS DON'T GET TO CLOSE! "

Tell that to the Orca #39 (as we were told)that came up beside our boat today! Later in the story! Pictures included! Anyways back to Houdini. She and the calf flipper slapped, breached and lobtailed to our delight. It sure beats the discovery channel.
We fished and caught several that were too small to keep.
Once at Farewell Harbour we hiked through the forest. It was nice to get some exercise.
The next morning we headed out to check out the Chiefs Bathtub and Pictographs. According to native forelore to become a real chief ,the candidate had to sit in this bathtub four times a day for four days as the cold waters of the tide washed in. The bathtub is a rock which through wave motion has been sculpted out. We continued on to Monks Wall an abandoned mission but could not get access to land due to low tides. Mamalilaculla would be the next stop. An abandon site. In 1921 this was the site of the "Christmas Potlatch " the last great Indian potlatch on the coast Potlaches had been banned since 1884, a number of the participants were jailed. This community remained until the 1960's.
Alert Bay would be our next destination were we took in a traditional dance performance. We bid Elaine and Jim farewell and are now continuing onto the next portion or our trip. I will have new pictures on the blog the next place I can steel free wifi! You never know where that will be.