The Panama Canal

Arriving here is a great thrill as it is the furthest south we will go on the Pacific side (as of now). We are proud of the accomplishments we have made to this point and look forward to the Atlantic side.

We have to appoligize to those who wanted to help transit the canal with us that we could not accommodate. However we will be coming back through in a couple of years.

I am pre writing this blog to post prior to our crossing as I had to fly home as my best friends' husband passed away suddenly and I need to be there. I will be publishing it from Calgary and returning a few days later. I will ask Ken, Wendy and Wayne to write about the Perlas Islands where they will be visiting while I am away.

Panama is located in Central America, bordering both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, between Colombia and Costa Rica. Its location on the Isthmus of Panama is strategic. By 2000, Panama controlled the Panama Canal which connects the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea to the North of the Pacific Ocean. Panama, at 75,420 sq km, is ranked 124th worldwide on the basis of land size. We were told by the admeasurer that it has been a very good thing for the country as it put billions into the coppers. When the Americans owned the canal they paid the government $388,000,000 a year. A big difference.
The spine that forms the divide is the highly eroded arch of uplift from the sea bottom, in which peaks were formed by volcanic intrusions. The whole area was once volcanos and by looking at the land mass it is obvious.
Panama's wildlife holds the most diversity of all the countries in Central America. It is home to many South American species as well as North American wildlife.
Panama has a tropical climate. Temperatures are uniformly high—as is the relative humidity—and there is little seasonal variation. Diurnal ranges are low; on a typical dry-season day in the capital city, the early morning minimum may be 24°C (75°F) and the afternoon maximum 29°C (84°F). The temperature seldom exceeds 32°C (90°F) for more than a short time. Temperatures on the Pacific side of the isthmus are somewhat lower than on the Caribbean, and breezes tend to rise after dusk in most parts of the country. Temperatures are markedly cooler in the higher parts of the mountain ranges, and frosts occur in the Cordillera de Talamanca in western Panama. After our stay in Golfito the lower temps are much appreciated. The water temperature is lower by 10 degrees.

Panama had a population of 3,360,474 in 2009. As of the year 2000, the majority of the population, 50.1%, was Mestizo. African and Mulatto were together the largest minority, accounting for 22%. For the remaining groups the percentages were: native Central American 6.7%, European 8.6%, Asian 5.5%, and other 7.1%. The Amerindian population includes seven indigenous peoples
The culture, customs, and language of the Panamanians are predominantly Caribbean and Spanish. Spanish is the official language. We are finding the Spanish/Carrib accent difficult to understand at times. Most of the Panamanian populations of West Indian descent owe their presence in the country to the monumental efforts to build the Panama Canal in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Our observation has been that the majority are of West Indian descent.
Once I get back and RJ arrives (same day) we will tour the historical museums and check out the canal while waiting for Paulette and Kenny to arrive.
We have a transit date of Mar 15 and will keep all informed as to what is happening. Ken will be sending out an email with an uplink to the canal cam that will allow anyone wanting to watch us transit to watch in real time. More on that to come

Domingo's Three Grandchildren

We Made it to the Canal

I will start this blog out firstly by saying that we do not have any effects from the earthquake in Chile. If a Tsunami was to come here the word is that it would have been here by now. If things change we will let you know. Thanks to all those that have emailed to see if we are ok.
Our entry into Panama was not very smooth. Another overnight passage not knowing which way the waves were coming from. We traveled as close to shore as we felt safe diminishing some of the motion. The areas from the Costa Rican border to Panama are filled with islands. This area is well known for its scuba diving and is now a Marine Park.
Our first stop would be Bahia Honda. This bay is very protected and as it turned out a great introduction to the Panamanian people.
The people in this area are very isolated. There are no roads leading out and their only means of transportation is by boat. The rivers are the highways for the indigenous that live here. The terrain is mountainous and jungle. Many wild animals call this area home. Jaguars are everywhere. Fishing, tropical fruit, beans and rice are their staples. They have their chickens for eggs and a larger brood and then used for dinners.
What these people may lack in processions they make up for in generosity.
We had only been anchored for about a half hour when our first visitor came to call. Domingo. He is a pleasant, talkative gentleman in his 70’s. He wanted to do some trading. Flashlights, batteries, fishing hooks, and clothes would be traded for fresh fruit.
The next visitors were a family in their dug out canoe. I rummaged through the boat and managed to find some things to give this family. Kennedy and his family are the son, daughter in law and grandchildren to Domingo. We had one more family visit that we gave fishing line; fishing hooks some food and books.
The weather was blowing gap winds through the Gulf of Panama so we made a decision to stay put in this secluded anchorage and let the bad weather pass us by.
We started stripping teak and doing maintenance chores on the boat. Continually we had visitors to come and talk to us. I am actually amazed that I understood about ¾ the conversations. When I didn’t understand I would have them repeat it again so I could grasp what they were telling us. They really like Canadians as we are quiet and peaceful.
Over the next couple of days we were brought gifts of hand carved animals, fruit, vegetables, fish and a lobster. Kennedy felt bad because he could only get one lobster. We were delighted with one lobster, Kennedy and his wife invited us to come to their home. He is extremely proud as he has built it all himself. It is a beautiful home and to date has taken 15 years. He manages to get things! He had used kitchen cabinets that he was ready to install in his kitchen. He has made his home as modern as one could have with no electricity or generators. Their view is of a beautiful beach within the bay. Now by going to his home we actually were not following the letter of the law as we had not yet checked into Panama and were waiting until we got to Panama City.
We were well back on the boat when a huge fish killer with 2 smaller fish killers came into the bay. They were obviously rich Panamanians, quite a difference from those that lived in this area. They stayed the next day and observed the visitations. Kennedy finally went to see if they needed anything only to find out that it was the President of Panama and his security on a fishing expedition.
We invited Kennedy’s family onto the boat and served them some of our type of food. Pickles they were not too fond of. The ice cubes and cold watermelon were a hit!
They are trying very hard to learn English and we are trying very hard to have someone understand our Spanish. Our three days spent with these people was truly remarkable and when we come back we have been requested to stay in their home and have a fiesta with them. We will do it!
It was off on another overnight journey this time the seas were calm but an electrical storm was catching up to us. It was sheet lightning so I wasn’t too concern. However the rain came with the lightning and we had to put in the windows. We arrived at Ensenada Naranjo and to our surprise fellow boaters whom we met in Mexico were at the anchorage.” Stettler” is a powerboat much like ours and the owners are also from Alberta.
The weather for the Gulf of Panama was perfect for a crossing so we spent only a few hours checking the systems, catching a cat nap then headed out the same day. One couldn’t have asked for better weather. Flat, calm, a moon shining and no rain. We were making such good time that Ken had to slow down so as to arrive at sunlight.
Isla Bona was once mined but is now abandoned. A boat with 7 guys came by and was coming close to our boat when one jumped in. They were after an iguana. That iguana went under our boat and was not coming out. Well the iguana thought the coast was clear and started heading to the shore when the guys spotted it trying to make its escape, they pounced on it like a cat on a mouse. Dinner that night was going to be iguana.

Proudly Showing the Iguana they Caught

Well we are now moored at the Balboa Yacht Club, outside the Panama Canal awaiting our crews’ arrival.

A path not travelled

Shampoo Plant

Costa Rica Finally
Our adventures with Angela and Ed continued. We went fishing but could not catch the elusive fish.
As what seems so often to happen with us our plans did not quite materialize as planned, however the substitute turned into a real treat. We were taken to a private farm (teak) which also has zip-lines and waterfalls in the jungle. The hike up to the waterfalls was very interesting with Kennedy (the interpreter) explaining what different plants and trees were and what they were used for. A special leave is used for toilet paper. It has a "Detol" smell to it. Interesting! Unfortunately we did not see any wild life. Angela took off her shoes and ventured into the water, but the consensus was not to go swimming. Angela mentioned that she would like to see some wild animals and birds etc. so we were taken on a real walk over paths that had to be cut by machete and checked for snakes. Fortunately or unfortunately depending on how you look at things no snakes were seen. We make way to much noise for anything to stick around. All and all I don't believe that most tourists can say that they walked through jungle that was not groomed in any fashion. It was well worth the visit. We returned to a traditional Costa Rican lunch complete with 50th wedding anniversary cake.
The following day we took a taxi from Golfito to a small pueblo Rio Claro (Clear River). Here a gentleman by the name of Robert Beatham owns Paradise Tropical Gardens. For 2 hrs he took us on a world wind tour of ¼ of his "garden in the jungle". We were introduced to new species all prevalent to the rainforest of Costa Rica. I found the Ginger Shampoo Plant the most interesting. You squeeze it and a soap like substance and water escapes from the plant.
We also learned that a banana tree is not really a tree. Robert had his son cut a piece of the trunk; in actual fact it is similar to how a celery stalk grows. We also learnt that there are 4000 species of bananas. ( I am going to research that when I have internet as it seems high, maybe it should be 400). Robert was the plant engineer for United Fruit in Golfito. When the banana prices took a tumble and the constant labour strikes seem to have no end, over night the company closed its plants and farms. The trees were eventually torn out and replanted into palm trees for oil. We were treated to the harvesting of these palms and tasted the fruit before they are pressed for their oil. It tasted like sweet potato.
Roberts's interests and hobby has turned his farm into a science research station. Over many years of research, trials and observations based on years of cultural medicines; he has come up with many remedies that would alleviate many medications. One such remedy is for diabetes. The ingredient is the house plant the Wandering Jew. The most common way it is used is to make a cup of tea using 3 leaves. Drink 3 cups a day. If you don't want to make the tea just eat 3 leaves of the Wandering Jew a day. The results to be expected for most people this will help lower their blood sugar levels. It will help so much that many people have been able to stop injecting themselves with insulin. The source of this remedy is based on local folklore.
Our week with the Looks was now up and they caught a plane into San Jose to do a little touring inland. Our only regret is that Ed did not catch his fish. (Sorry Ed, a side note on our way out of the bay Ken caught 3 Sierra)
We got ourselves ready for our International Check Out. Luckily all went smoothly. The Port Captain said to us "Look out my window, that mountain is called The Sleeping Dragon". Sure enough it looks just like a sleeping dragon.
We are now on the move to Panama City and are just 2 sleeps away. This is being sent through SSB radio so when internet is available I will add pictures and re-align the text.
We were in Costa Rica for approximately 2 months and saw many wonderful sights. The people are definitely more affluent than the previous countries we have visited.
Another country well worth visiting.

Ken Playing Tarzan on the swing. This was a riot over a small creekand raveen

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Not Just a Pretty Face

Rainforest Animals

Angela and Ed arrived on time and are sharing this weeks adventure with us. We have more victims for Mexican Train.
As Angela says no one can sweat this much! The humidity is high and the temperature in the shade is at least 90. Everyone glistens.
We decided to visit a wildlife sanctuary to observe some of the wildlife of the Rainforest. The Osa Wildlife Sanctuary was established by Carol and Earl Crews in 1996.
Originally, the sanctuary was focused only on birds. Then, after Poppy, the spider monkey arrived on October 29, 2003 - the flood gates opened. The sanctuary is now home to a wide variety of orphaned and injured animals (about 70 animals in residence). The sanctuary is situated on the Golfo Dulce coast at Cana Blanca; a 45 minute fast panga ride from Golfito.
There are 4 species of monkeys in Costa Rica. They are the Central American Squirrel, White Face, Spider, and the Howler Monkey. The refuge had 3 of the species to observe and learn about.
The White Face monkeys were kept in cages to protect them from other healthy white face monkeys in the wild. We witnessed a wild one trying to get into the enclosure.
These small primates are widely recognized as the most intelligent New World monkey. White Faced are highly social animals and live in troops of 10 to 30 individuals. The average group has roughly 15 members led by a dominant male. They are arboreal creatures and seldom descend to the forest floor. The monkeys use chatters, shrieks and other sounds to communicate with one another. They are omnivores and eat everything from insects and invertebrates to flowers and fruit. They prefer their fruit ripened and will often smell, squeeze or bite it before consumption.
These primates have also been known to eat bird eggs, crabs and small lizards. They play an invaluable role in seed dispersal as they often discard fruit pits on the forest floor. Although they get moisture from fruit and animals, they have been observed drinking water from tree holes and other sources. White-faced monkeys inhabit diverse areas and can thrive in high-altitude cloud forests as well as wet lowlands along the coast. They are also prevalent in both wet and tropical dry forests
Females mate with several males in the troop and give birth to one offspring every two years. Baby capuchins cling to their mothers’ backs for the first three months while they are still nursing. Infants are weaned by one year of age and reach sexual maturity when they are five to seven years old.
In the wild, white-faced monkeys are preyed upon by boa constrictors, large raptors and jaguars. Their population in Costa Rica is currently considered healthy and stable. The biggest threat to the capuchin species is habitat destruction. With increased development, humans are slowly encroaching on their territory.
It was the two Spider Monkeys however that gave us the most pleasure. They would demand your attention, wanting for you to scratch and play. We got great

pictures of Ed and Angela with their new found friends.

Spider monkeys live in medium-sized, loosely associated groups of about 30 individuals, which fragment into subgroups of varying smaller sizes and composition. Unless there is an abundance of preferred food available, the subgroup size will consist of fewer than 4 animals. These groups will roam independently in the same general area; the only persistent association is that of a female with her offspring.

The refuges birds are helped and released when possible however many are hurt to a point they would only die in the wild. There has been a successful breading of the Scarlet Macaws and released in the area.
The Scarlet Macaw lays two or three white eggs in a tree cavity. The female incubates the eggs for about 28 days, and the chicks flee from the nest about 90 days after hatching and leave their parents about a year later. By the 1960s Scarlet Macaws had been decreasing in numbers due to a combination of factors, particularly hunting, poaching, and the destruction of habitat through deforestation. Further, the spraying of pesticides by companies cultivating and selling bananas for export played a significant role in decreasing Scarlet Macaw populations. Interestingly the Macaws remain in the area they first take their first flight.
I found it very interesting to learn more about the Toucans. The toucan's diet consists of fruits, bird eggs, insects, rodents, reptiles, and other weaker birds. The predators of the toucan are humans, big cats, and its worst enemy is the jaguar. Toucans have three adaptations that help them survive. The first one is that they have bills in order to eat food. They are similar to a saw. Earl mentioned that this bird, while sought after for photos and pets, is often very fierce and should not be trusted. The second adaptation that they have is the claws on each leg. Two claws in the front and two in the back. This helps them stand on trees. The last one is the color of its feathers changed, in order to blend into its surroundings. There are 37 different species of toucans. They are solitary or live with a mate. They are frugivors (animals that eat fruits.)
They sleep in holes that are in trees. If they don't fit, they turn themselves into a feathery ball to make their body smaller.
Our next adventure took us with our driver to Puerto Jimenez. This town seems much more vibrant than Golfito. We walked the streets until the real meaning of Rain Forest came to be known. Within minutes the ditches that were wide and deep were filled and overflowing. The residents whom are accustomed to the weather sat back and enjoyed each others company while drinking their pops and treats, waiting for the storm to pass.
The seas were beginning to add a little height. If you have ever rode on the back of a motorcycle while it was raining you would understand our 45 minute ride back to Golfito. We looked like 4 drowned rats.
Fishing has not been so good. No big ones yet, but I know Ed will get the big one before he leaves.
Tomorrow we will be heading towards another waterfall. Hopefully we will see more monkeys and birds. Time will tell.

Do History Lessons Change Depending on Where You are From?

We hastily checked in with the Port Captain receiving our National Zarpe to continue on to Quepos and Golfito. We took the opportunity to drop off our bimini for repairs, did some provisioning for the next 8 days and were ready to depart by the rising tide at 1400 hr. Puntneranas was an interesting stop.
We headed over to Isla San Lucas. This island was once the site of a forbidding prison. Central Americas answer to Alcatraz. It was abandoned in 1991. It is now a National Heritage Site and a National Wildlife Preserve. I am not sure what kind of animal that we could hear howling that night.
The following day we motored to Bahia Herradura. This protected bay is a hot spot for fishing. Many large vessels were anchored along side us. The very expensive marina was not an option for us. They ask $4.25/ft . That would put us over $200.00 a night. Our pool was just fine, a balmy 87 degrees, and free.
Quepos was our next stop. They are building a massive marina here. It was scheduled to open 2005. I think they missed their target. The locals figure it will be opened by next year.
Quepos is a quaint little town with lots of restaurants and tourist activities. I am not sure how this new marina is going to effect the town but it has effected the anchorage by pushing boats further out into the open sea making it not quite as calm as it once would have been.
Bahia Dominicalito is hidden away from tourists in a very quiet protected bay. It was obvious to us that this little bay isn’t visited very often by cruisers as we were checked out by the local fleet of boats. They all liked the name Genesis. I do believe it could keep us safe. Who knows? This by far is one of my favourite anchorages. That evening the night winds came off the land but not where we expected them to come from. We were abeam to the swell. Not a comfortable way to try and sleep. The sounds in the boat were keeping me awake so I opted to sleep up top. This made the side motion exaggerated. Needless to say I did not sleep well. We wanted to stay another day, so in the morning we put out a stern anchor and had a much needed comfortable sleep the next evening.
Our next destination has me checking the internet for history as what I learnt in school is not what they are taught down here. Bahia Drake.
In Canadian history we learnt that Sir Francis Drake was a hero. He is famous for (among other things) leading the first English circumnavigation of the world, from 1577 to 1580. Queen Elizabeth "I" knighted him for his accomplishments. Not to mention the large amounts of cash he brought back to her. In 1577 Elizabeth"I" sent Drake to start an expedition against the Spanish along the Pacific coast of the Americas. Did she know what he was up to? Only she knows!

His exploits were legendary, making him a hero to the English, but a pirate to the Spaniards to whom he was known as El Draque, 'Draque' being the Spanish pronunciation of 'Drake'.
In 1579 Francis Drake landed in Bahia Drake. The history here says that he attacked and stripped a boat named Nuestra Senora de la Conception, in Ecuador before reaching Isla del Cano. It is said that he snuck up on this ship pretending to be a merchant vessel. The surrender was quick. As a result, Queen Elizabeth scored a fortune worth in today’s terms $200 million. It is believed that he took some loot for himself and buried it in Bahia Drake located 12 nm from Isla Cano. We didn’t go treasure hunting. Maybe we should have, any extra cash would be nice.
We are now in Golfito after a very bumpy ride south. We were having inverter issues so Ken sourced the problem and today is re-routing wires to have the inverter now rest in the salon. The problem seems to be that it was too hot in the engine room to allow it to work properly. I know the feeling. We have 90 – 105 degree days. I am not working too well these days either. For the first time since we began this trip I got burnt. It was a deceiving cloudy day, still in the 90’s. I now look like a red panda. Raccoon looking.
Sunday was an election in Costa Rica. A woman was elected President for the first time in Costa Rican politics. Things are a changing; maybe the all ole boys’ clubs of the world will be replaced by people that want to help the people of their country. No I didn’t fall and bang my head, it’s just a wish.
Our next guests, Angela and Ed Look arrive tomorrow and we will spend the week in the Golfito Dulce area fishing and checking out the jungles and towns.