Tuesday, March 30, 2010

This is being sent over SSB Radio so once in internet area pictures and film clips will be added.
Weather delays, boat repairs, canal delays all led to our late departure out of the Colon canal region, but finally the day came. We headed south with our crew now consisting of Wendy, Wayne, Paulette and Kenny.
Our first port of call would be Isla Linton. It is one of the best anchorages along the coast to the San Blas islands. It has excellent shelter from the wind in all directions. The island is uninhabited, except for a few monkey families that live in the hills. These monkeys are the real owners of the island; they usually come down to the dock by the anchorage in the afternoon.
We Canadians know not to feed wildlife, after all "cuddly bears" are not pets but creatures to be feared. I have watched Ken stop tourists along the Trans Canada Highway that thought they would get a close up picture of a black bear and warn them of the danger that that were inflicting on themselves.
Why do I bring this up? Because of a Monkey we have named Lucy!
Kenny took the sea kayak out for a trip around to discover that the monkeys were down by the shore. Ken, Wayne, Wendy and Kenny jumped into the dinghy and went to investigate. Upon arrival, they tied the dinghy to the dock, Wendy and Kenny got out onto the dock to video the monkeys. One monkey, the female nasty one, came strutting down the dock to be fed. Not knowing that they get angry if not FED. Lucy ignored Ken, so Ken tried to get her attention, he touched her shoulder and SHE attacked him. That's what Wayne caught on home video; That's what's on U-Tube, That's what's on Worlds Worst Video's. That's what's in the BLOG.
The following day we made it to the Eastern Lemmon Cays. This delightful group of islands has several well protected anchorages. Kenny spent hours snorkelling over the reef behind our boat.
Our final day was spent at the anchorage in front of the airport. The island of Porvenir has a Kuna operated office where both the immigration papers and cruising permits are obtained. There is a restaurant and hotel along with an airstrip that has one plane a day going to Panama City.
We took the dinghy to Isla Wichubhuala to check out the store and what it had for supplies. We spent hours wandering around the village. I will describe the Kuna people in more detail in a future blog when I have observed more traditional villages.
The crew departed early in the morning and it feels strange having the boat to ourselves. It has been an interesting 3 months since we started with our first guest Alanna, then Janet and Jerry, Brenda and Doug, Angela and Ed, Wendy and Wayne, RJ, Kenny and Paulette.
We thank you all for sharing in our adventure and hope to see you again soon somewhere.
Now........................................
Greek mythology called it Nirvana; the Kuna Indians refer to it as ban nikia; Espanol s' name for it is ciclo; the English word for it is heaven.
Close your eyes and imagine entering into an area with a mosaic of different shades of blue water. Each colour has its own message to what lays beneath.
Imagine anchoring in 15 feet of the most turquoise water you have probably ever seen. The water is so clear that you can see every link in the chain you have let out.
Imagine looking at the land and seeing an uninhabited island covered in coconut trees and surrounded by white sand. Small reefs come off the beach to add to the mesmerizing sight.
Imagine donning ones snorkel and fins and swimming into the beach observing vibrant species of fish, star fish and so much more. The temperature of your aquarium is a mere 88 degrees Fahrenheit.
Imagine dining on the fresh caught fish you collected along the way.
Imagine a light breeze blowing as you listen to the surf crashing against the outer barrier reef that surrounds the island, all the while you are tucked inside safe and sound being lulled to sleep.
Imagine 400 of these islands some inhabited and some still oh natural.
This area exists and it is known as Kuna Yala by the natives or the San Blas Archipelago. Panama's own South Pacific.
We are now anchored in the Swimming Pool, its directly beside the Hot Tub, it's as clear as any swimming pool, and the water temperature in the hot tub, well its correctly named.
We will be in the San Blas and heading south for a least a couple of more weeks before heading to Colombia.

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Don't Mess With Lucy

Saturday, March 20, 2010

This blog was a collaboration from the crew of the Genesis and Faye still takes no responsibility for its content:
Transiting the canal
March 15, 2010 was the apparent day to run the trench, however due to a work to rule traveling bug it was postponed to the following day. The crew of Genesis was up bright and early at 0600 in anticipation of the day that was to unfold. Alonzo our line handler arrived at 0645 after having spent the night sleeping on the fuel dock. Then we hurry up and wait...... for the advisor Ricaurto as he was at the wrong marina.
Slipped the lines from the mooring ball & we’re finally off. Arrived at the Miraflores Locks approx 1000 hrs; the first & second lifts from the Pacific side to fresh water in the Miraflores Lake. We safely transited the first two chambers in approximately 45 minutes then proceeded onto the Pedro Miguel Locks. The third step or lift from the Pacific to the 85 ft level of Gatun Lake, from this point we followed through Grillard Cut Canal. It was dug through the hills a distance of 9 miles where crocodillos are abundant throughout the canal and are among the only creatures that get through the locks free of charge. R.J. was fortunate enough to capture a picture of one. We have been told that they are one of the most advanced of all reptiles despite their prehistoric look. While anchored at Gatun Lake they sometimes get curious and swim around the boat around sunrise. It was at this point, we were advised that we would not be transiting all the way through, but would be staying overnight in Gatun Lake as we were the only pleasure boat transiting at that time. We would spend 24 hours listening to the Howler monkeys, swimming with the crocs, playing Mexican train, playing guitar and maracas & singing to pass the time. Alonzo, our line handler was still with us & now was becoming part of our family, participating in all activities as well as watching for crocs as we swam & frolicked. Our advisor Roy came at 1600 hrs to transit the final lock at 1700 hrs. Gatun Locks has three chambers; ships are raised or lowered three steps – sea level to 85 ft. We were intrigued at the whole process of the locks filling & emptying with water, lifting & lowering us through the canal. The directions from the advisor to the line handlers; (Wayne, Kenny, R.J. & Alonzo) ran very smoothly & we were all given an A+, even Captain Ken! Upon exiting the last lock a pilot ship picked up our advisor and we made our way to the Shelter Bay Marina. For the first time since leaving Vancouver we are now amongst cruisers from all over the world!
Please follow onto the next blog and watch our transit movie

Please join our adventure by watching a small video of our journey through the last lock of the Panama Canal. WE ARE OFFICIALLY ON THE OTHER SIDE. THE LEFT SIDE!

Monday, March 15, 2010

This weeks message has been writen and authorized by our crew member and guest Wayne Mikkelsen. I hold no responsibility for the following information that you are about to receive.
Sincerely,
Faye
I spent my winter planning a trip to Alaska, charting over 2200 miles of routes and studying guide books to go north. Now I find myself sitting on a mooring buoy at the Balboa Yacht Club in Panama, looking out at the Bridge of Americas. Sometimes you have to go south to go north. Friends, Faye & Ken invited us along with their son R.J, Paulette & Ken to transit the Panama Canal. The Bridge of the Americas reconnected east & west Panama which had been separated during the digging of the canal. It was finished in 1962, spans 5425 ft from abutment to abutment, and has a clearance of 201 feet, and the traffic load of 35,000 vehicles a day.

Unfortunately, the day after we arrived, Faye returned to Calgary for a funeral, leaving Ken, Wendy & I to care for ourselves. We took advantage of the time and motored out to the Las Perlis Islands-stayed at Isla Contadora anchored out, looking back at the expensive houses on shore. The second night we travelled to Isla Viveros where a new resort is being built. Again we anchored out looking at the beautiful sand beaches. The forecast was for high winds so we returned the 40 or so miles bucking into the 25 knot winds. An experience, not conducive to convincing Wendy to travel around the world in our boat.

Ken, Wendy & I toured the Informative Centre at Mira Flores locks. The original canal construction, started by the French and taken over by the Americans was completed in 1914. At present the locks are each 1000 ft long and 110 feet wide and will accommodate ships up to 980 ft long. New locks are under construction which will be 1400 ft long and 180 ft wide. The Americans controlled the canal until December 31, 1999 when it was returned to the Panamanians. Our guide told us that the average vessel pays $100,000.00 US to transit. We paid $1250.00 US for broker fees, permits and our transit. The least ever paid was an American swimmer that paid $0.35. and the largest fee that was ever collected was $385,000.00 US. The canal employs about 240 highly trained and experienced pilots who steer the ships through the water way. Some of these pilots make $14,000 per month which is reportedly a higher salary than the President of Panama. Average wages for locals are $1.50 - $1.80 per hour. In three locking steps ships are raised 85 ft up to Gatun Lake and then lowered down to the other side. More than 14,000 ships per year transit the canal. Crocodillias transit for free.

Upon Faye’s return & R.J.’s arrival we toured Casco Viejo-the Old Quarter, including the Simon Bolivar monument, The National Theatre, two cathedrals and the outside of the President’s Palace.

When Ken & Paulette arrived we went on a jungle tour to the Chagnes River in dugout canoes to visit the Embera tribe. We first went to swim at the waterfall and then we were welcomed to their village for lunch, which was a rolled up leaf with fried fish, plantain and fresh fruit. Houses were built on stilts traditionally to protect from jaguar, wild boar, and rodents. This also avoids flooding in the rainy season & prohibits the invasion of insects. They are basket weavers and wood carvers, scantily clothed who do not marry but live with their women as long as they get along, but can change mates at any time.
Tomorrow at 7:30 am we transit.