Water Falls We Hiked

Nicaragua is a country with many contrasts.
While driving down the main highways you will share the road with people walking, chicken buses, luxury buses, horse drawn carts carrying people and supplies, bikes, scooters, motorcycles, cars, oh yes cows, pigs, chickens, goats, dogs and occasionally something you might not know what it is.
Nicaragua has widespread unemployment and 48% of its people live below the poverty line. Distribution of income is one of the most unequal in the world. Rolling blackouts are the norm here and generally they happen daily if not every other day.
The people however carry on. By observation much of their day is spent doing the necessary things to survive. Collecting wood for their fires for cooking, washing clothes in the rivers or lakes, cleaning their yards and floors (dirt ) continually. We watched children swimming in the lake but this were not just for fun it had a duel purpose. They were fishing for dinner. Families generally have chickens, horses, dogs and cats. None are pets. Horses are used as transportation, working the fields, carting things, lawn mowers and fertilizer. Chickens are for eggs, reproducing and consumption. Dogs are for protection. Cats do not get fed, thus they will mouse or get rid of unwanted insects. Others are lucky they have pigs or cattle. The community has a barter system that works for them. One will do something or trade something for something else. The land is very fertile so fresh fruit and vegetables are not a problem.

Christmas is celebrated like North America for the Upper Middle and Upper Class. Very much commercialized. However the majority of Nicaraguans celebrate Christmas in the same traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation. The process was explained to us by Jamie who you will read about later.
The last month of the year is full of parties, happiness, family traditions, and religion. Massive processions take place all over the country. An inevitable and popular aspect is the gunpowder used in fireworks and firecrackers that loudly accompany the Nicaraguan celebrations.
Imagine ‘La Purísima’ like this: a richly decorated altar is placed in a corner of a family house, with a statue of the Virgin Mary‘s image. In front of this altar, a lot of chairs are arranged, that will be occupied by family members, friends, and neighbors invited by the house owners to celebrate its ‘Purísima’. Once all the guests arrive, the celebration starts with prayers to the virgin, but these are alternated with traditional songs. All the assistants accompany with whistles, tambourines and other instruments. While this takes place inside the house, outside some family members fire rockets and the so called ‘caraga cerrada’, (firecrackers) that contribute to a lot of boisterous celebration. Meanwhile the singings and prayers take place, the host distributes to his/her guests fruits, traditional sweets, caramels, traditional drinks, sugar-cane and many other gifts. Generally the more the family has the more they give, however it is not a contest and is not observed that way.
‘La Purísima’ is a celebration to the ‘purest conception of Virgin Mary’, taking place on December 8th, according to the Catholic calendar. ‘La Purísima’ is a tradition celebrated in all parts of Nicaragua by thousands of Nicaraguan families. These celebrations take place from the end of November and during almost all of December.
‘Purísimas’ are made for devotion or for gratitude to miracles that persons attribute to Virgin Mary. The families, or a couple of members of a family, realize a "novenario" of prayers to the Virgin lasting nine days. Sometimes, the first eight days the prayers are private, but the ninth one is celebrated as described previously, but every family puts a little of their own style. It is interesting how each family inherits the image of the Virgin from their ancestors; some of these images have been in the same family over a century. Some of the churches have the Virgin Mary to go! The statue is taken to the home where the Purisima will be then after the celebration will be returned to the church where the next family will bring it to their home.
The families celebrate Christmas on the 24th. The small villages with all the families get together for church, dancing, singing and fireworks. The official meal is not eaten until midnight.
The traditional food is the Nactamale. Nacatamales are a dough which is prepared with ground corn and butter. This is then filled up with small pieces of pork or chicken, rice, potatoes, tomatoes, onion, sweet pepper (all in slices). This mixture is packed in leaves of plantain trees (not edible), tightened with a small thread, that makes it look like a tiny pillow. It is then cooked inside the leaves and boiled during five hours. They are very tasty. Somewhat bland but one fills you up.

This week has been busy. After picking Alanna up we ventured further inland to partake in what Nicaragua has to offer. Our first stop was the City of Granada.
Granada is located on Lago Nicaragua. (Lake Nicaragua) It was founded in 1524. The colonial style homes are painted in bright colours, showing off their architecture. Tourism has had a significant role here. We took a horse drawn tour of the city but unfortunately most things were closed being that we arrived on a Sunday. The following morning we were able to explore a bit more. Alanna found a dress for her birthday, and a woven cloth for a Christmas present. I found a bright coloured painting depicting Granada which will adorn a wall on The Genesis.
That afternoon we caught a 3 hr ferry over to the Island of Ometepe. By the time we arrived it was dark so we opted for a mid island accommodation. Casa Hotel Istiam. This accommodation cost $8.00 per person. Alanna’s room was ok. Ours was, well different. I needed to relieve myself, and as I stood up something was swimming in the toilet. A small frog. We fished him out and let him survive. Next it was a Mexican Hat dance with a few cockroaches. That night I slept with the sheet over my head as to not hear the mosquitoes that were doing aerial maneuvers above us. Ken at one point in the evening got up to put on "OFF". This hotel however had excellent food, inexpensively. They did not have a cake however to celebrate Alanna’s birthday.
The following morning we boarded the chicken bus to go further into the Island in the small Village of Merida. Luckily the first place we stopped at was full. They graciously phoned our other choice which was a wonderful find.
To just back up a little; Isla Ometepe is an island formed by two volcanoes rising out of a lake. It is still very unspoiled and the people live the way their ancestors had. The 2 volcanoes are Concepcion which rises 1610 m above the lake and Mederas at 1394m. The island includes Howler monkeys, green parrots, blue tail birds and numerous of different colour butterflies. The island is great for the outdoor enthusiast, so the general age of the tourists seems to be about Alanna’s age.

We arrived at La Omaja where we shared a cabana. This is a very attractive hillside hotel with excellent cabins and fabulous views. The restaurant was fabulous, but what truly makes this place is its owners and staff.
The owner, Jamie was a lawyer who practiced law for 8 yrs in Omaha Nebraska. He had I guess, maybe a crises or a need to travel and arrived on this island taking Spanish lessons, then helping out in the orphanage. He fell in love, both with the country and his soon to be wife. He explains it that his parents thought he had lost it. All that schooling for what?
An opportunity arose to buy this piece of property from a local that needed the money. Well he sold what he had back in the States and now has the most wonderful piece of paradise on the island, a wife – Roxanne and two wonderful boys, Christopher and Aces. I sure believe he made the right choice.
Upon our arrival Jamie drove us to the hiking trail of la Casada de San Ramon. ( San Ramon Waterfalls) This was a 3 hr hike up to the falls. I now know what my New Year’s Resolution will be. No more drinking, restaurants, and a fitness plan! Out of shape is an understatement. We all made it up to a rewarding cool falls. Going down was much easier. On our trip home we mentioned that we still wanted to try the Nicaraguan Nactamale and in passing that it was Alanna’s birthday.
The following day Alanna was taken by a tour guide up to hike Volcan Maderas. It is an 8 hr, very difficult hike. The crater at the top has a lake but she said you would have to climb down into it so it wasn’t worth the extra four hours. That evening for dinner we were treated to the traditional dinner and Jamie had brought a women in to especially make Alanna a birthday cake. The Nicaraguan birthday song was sung to her then the Canadian version. I must admit I enjoyed theirs more. What a wonderful and thoughtful gesture.
If you want to stay at a wonderful place with wonderful people, learn some Spanish, volunteer, check out Jamie’s web page at http://www.laomaja.com/ . It was definitely well worth the visit.
The next morning Jamie had arranged for a taxi driver to pick us up from the ferry and drive us direct to Chenendaga. This would be a 4 hr drive. By bus it would take us all day and we possibly couldn’t have made it back to the boat, as it was Christmas Eve. We made it back and had a lovely dinner at the resort restaurant. We are the only boat in the marina so this Christmas is being spent together just as a family, missing RJ. We hope everyone out there had a wonderful Christmas.

Traditional Dances

Nicaragua
Our home for the next 3 -4 weeks in Puesta del Sol. Nestled in a beautiful azure lagoon on the pristine north Pacific coast of Nicaragua, this 600 acre picturesque resort offers the luxury and amenities befitting a world class hotel while retaining the “off the beaten path” exclusivity of a remote paradise. Unfortunately the recession is here and the tourism is down to about 1%. We were the only guests at the resort enjoying this wonderful place. Robert the owner has spent much time with us explaining the politics and much more to us about this wonderful country we are exploring.
Nicaragua takes its name from Nicarao, chief of the indigenous tribe then living around present-day Lake Nicaragua. A friendly and peaceful country that at times, received an undue share of negative press, Nicaragua is really one of the safest places to visit in Central America. With more than a decade of political stability, this democracy has moved steadily forward, leaving behind the war-torn ‘80’s, remembered as one more chapter in it’s turbulent past.
The nickname “land of lakes and volcanoes” describes this beautiful and fascinating country well. Two great lakes, Xolotlán (Lake Managua) and Cocibolca (Lake Nicaragua) occupy roughly 10 percent of the countries surface area, and are the largest in Central America. Running nearly parallel to the pacific coast is a chain of 58 volcanoes, six of which are active. The country also boasts the longest rivers, vast coastal lagoons, and hundreds of miles of sea coast. As the largest and lowest Central American country, Nicaragua is essentially an emerging “land bridge” between Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Centrally located between North and South America, Nicaragua has benefited from the astonishing blend of flora and fauna from the two continents.

We set out for the town Chinandega on the chicken bus. Remember in the 70´s when there was contests on how many people you could fit in a in a Volkswagon Beetle? Well we had 103 in a school bus for 1 ½ hours. The department [Province or State} of Chinandega is characterized by spectacular scenery, beautiful beaches, and a multitude of relatively unexplored attractions. The department features Nicaragua’s highest volcano, the San Cristóbal, among several other magnificent volcanoes. Pristine beaches, historical towns, estuaries filled with mangrove forest, and some of Nicaragua’s finest churches can all be found in this department. The main city of the department, also called Chinandega. Nowadays, the city is an active commercial center where all types of mostly agricultural products from the region are traded. The city’s good connection with the port of Corinto and the city of León make Chinandega an important hub in the area. Large trucks carrying gasoline or sugar canes are a common sight. Within the city, however, pedestrians and cyclists rule the streets. Tourism is not really very big here.
We returned to the boat to get it ready for Christmas. The lights are on the boat and the decorations are out. It is really hard to believe it is Christmas with temperatures in the 90s.
Robert the owner of Puesta del Sol was going into Managua to catch a flight so he so generously offered us a ride into the City. He so graciously bought us lunch at one of the many steak houses in Managua. We were surprised to learn that Nicaragua exports its beef to most Central American countries and some South American countries. It is every bit as good as Alberta beef. The animals are fed pretty much the same diet as at home. In fact the land is very fertile here.

Alanna arrived right on time and we are busy traveling around the south of Nicaragua. I have lots to write about in the next blog along with pictures. As I am at a internet café I will stop the blog here and continue when we get back to the boat. As I write this Alanna is hiking a volcano for 8 hrs. She will see monkeys, and many bird species. Nicaragua again is a must see country. Awesome.Ken, Alanna and I wish everyone a wonderful Christmas

El Salvador; a Place We Want to Go Back To

Our week stay was much to short. We crammed as much into a week as one possibly could. Knowing we needed to be in Nicaragua for Christmas pushed us out of a place you could spend years in.
We stayed at Bahia del Sol, an RCI all inclusive Hotel and Marina. The service was truly magnificent. We met many new friends both boaters and other guests.
We hired Miguel and Martin to tour us around El Salvador. We were joined by Martin’s son Jonathon and Lucien a guest we met by the pool from, Vancouver. Our gracious hosts racked up the miles.
The tour began with the “Ruta de Las Flores” (Route of the flowers). Unfortunately the blossoms of the coffee plants had finished in November. We however were far from disappointed. This is a pleasant route from Sonsonate to Achuachpan that includes five destinations full of cultural traditions, history, archeological sites and natural attractions, cooler climate and gorgeous scenery. The five towns: Apaneca, Juayua, Ataco, Nahuizalco and Salcoatitan, located in the mountain range Ilamatepec - Apaneca have been named the Flower Trail due to the nice crispy weather and amazing floral scenery. The trail will take you through two departments (States/Provinces) in the western part of El Salvador: Sonsonate and Ahuachapan
Nahulzalco was founded by four families from Izalco. It is a town of Indigenous tradition which main attractions are the night markets and the crafts. The wood work was beautiful and the pottery unique. We purchased ceramic butterflies to hang in Genesis to represent El Salvador, and maracas for future music ho-downs.

Salcoatitan is a small coffee production town; its main attraction is the colonial church in front of the town square. They get three coffee crops a year. Salcoatitan was the first place in El Salvador where coffee bushes were planted in the 1860s. Salcoatitan is also well known for its many handicraft stores, even though relatively few people stop on their way.

Juayua, which means river of purple orchids in Nahuatl, is located at 1060 meters above sea level. Juayua is a city that has become so popular over the last few years and most of it is probably due in part to its many small hotels and the food festival held every weekend for the last 13 years. In Juayua you can also practice many eco-tourist activities such as hiking the Chorros de la Calera, a natural waterfall located at approximately 2 kilometers from the city center, was attempted by us but the road had been washed out and we had a difficult time getting to it. The Black Christ Church (Iglesia Del Cristo Negro) is a Catholic church built more than 500 years ago where the image of a Black Christ is solemnly venerated here as well as in the city of Esquípulas in Guatemala. The church has been rebuilt three times in the past. The Black Christ is erected at the head of the church and is carved from ironwood.

Apaneca is the highest located city in El Salvador. This is a place where some of the best and award winning coffees are produced due to its height. We have bought some and are enjoying in immensely. The city welcomes visitors with picturesque tile roofed homes and astonishing views of the mountains and hills. Apaneca means "the river of winds", and the city pays respect to the meaning of its name. Along the mountain range you can see many wind barriers made from coffee bushes which add an additional beauty to the panoramic views. Many of the berries were red and ripe adding to the colour. February is the main month for harvesting.
We ventured to Laguna Verde" (green lagoon) one of the most popular places visited in the area. This lake is a naturally spring fed. It is in a cone of a volcano. We hiked around the lake with a park employee and learnt much about the vegetation. Due to the altitude they actually have peach and wild banana trees. The water itself is piped down the volcano to the town of Apaneca. The church of Apaneca used to maintain the original structure, but unfortunately was demolished and built all over again only to have to be redone again, due to the damage done in the year 2001 earthquake and most recently by a seismic wave that originated in the Apaneca region. It was closed and services were being attended in the court yard.
We wanted to find a hotel with a pool so that we could treat Martin, Jonathon, and Miguel. We were in the mountains and it was cool. I had to put on a jacket and there was no way Ken, I or Lucien were going in the pool. The others spent hours enjoying themselves. It was a great place to stop for the evening.
The following day we headed out to do the “Ruta Arqueologica” (Archaeological Route). This route leads you to the main archaeological sites of El Salvador which are part of the Mayan World and surpluses of the colonial time. Civilizations such as the Maya, Pipil and Lenca, settled on this land where there are still remains of their ceremonial centers such as:
Joya de Cerén: Located in the Department of La Libertad, just 30 minutes
from the capital, it was declared Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in
1993. There you can see the daily life of the native dwellers that was
interrupted by the eruption of Loma Caldera Volcano around 600 AD. Joya
de Cerén has 18 edifices, ten of which have been excavated to reveal
corridors, doors, benches, steam-baths, corn fields, and vegetable gardens.
Apparently at the time of the volcanic eruption the inhabitants left their
belongings and dropped everything, even the meals that had been cooking
on the fire, to flee. Everything had been preserved by 10 layers of ash that
covered it all for over 1,400 years, until its discovery in 1976. One of the dwellings was a wealthy inhabitant with the multifamily dwellings around it. The witch doctors dwelling was still intact. They know there is more to uncover but until they can find a scientific way to preserve the clay they are leaving it buried.
San Andrés was the regional focal point for government, ceremonials, and administration from 600 to 900 AD. There is also a colonial-period indigo manufactory that was buried under by the “Playón”
Volcano’s 1658 AD. Eruption. The series of important findings at this site also include
a religious scepter made of flint .The complex spans approximately 35 hectares, and is
one of El Salvador’s largest pre-Hispanic centers. The museum attached was very interesting.
Chalchuapa, some 79 km from San Salvador, Chalchuapa is the largest archeological area in the country. In Chalchuapa there are archeological sites like Tazumal, Casa Blanca, Trapiche, Pampe and Las Victorias.
Tazumal, 80 km from San Salvador, was first noted in 1892 and was formally registered in 1940. Human settlement of Tazumal began in 1200 BC. Within the over 24-meter high structure, tombs were found containing over 116 vessels, jade jewelry, pyrite iron mirrors, ball-game artifacts, and lizard shaped ceramic figures.
Casa Blanca I believe was my favourite site. It was the first settlement that dates from 1500 BC. Remains of the fifteenth century náhuatl culture have been found there. There is a museum where four carved stones are on exhibit measuring over a meter tall. Also there is an indigo-dying workshop where visitors can create their own stamped piece, hands-on. The interpreter showed us how the indigo was crushed from the leaves of the plant and made into dye. Talk about a flash back. All of a sudden I remembered doing this very thing with my Aunt when we were both teenagers in my Grandmother’s kitchen. I had forgotten that I even knew how to do this. I believe Lynda had learnt to do it in Art class then passed it on.
The best part of El Salvador was like everywhere else we have been the people: kind, helpful anxious to show the best of their country. The beaches are wonderful, hotels modern, ready to serve.
We stayed an extra day as a special meal was being prepared for Ken and I. Our friends from Canada were invited and we dined on the best food I have tasted in my life. We did a photo op the next day and Martin’s Dish will be the cover of my travel cookbook. The friendship that Ken and I garnered with Miguel and Martin will be cherished forever and I know that we will be back to this place.
Again do not listen to the media, do not be afraid of Central America come help their economy and enjoy the people and countries.

Chef Martin (and our great friend)

We are actually further south than the red dot. We are located where the blue water appears by the shore. (I couldn't find a map with the actual location)

A Week in Review
(Sounds like a news report)
We threw off the lines and headed out Sunday to start our 3 day 11 hr journey out of Mexico. The weather window could not have been any better. A full week with no wind expected. A full moon. As luck or (good planning) would have it the trip was non-eventful. It was such a pleasure to be guided over the water with a full moon lighting the way. We entered Guatemala around 1230 in the afternoon, thus we transited most during the evening and some into the next morning. The fishermen here have a very unique and wonderful system. They have their nets attached to poles that have flags and at night flashing strobe lights. Red and green; thus allowing you to know where to pass. The fishermen themselves have a flashing white strobe to indicate where they are floating. I seem to have the shift that transited through the Guatemala fishing fleet. I was happy to see the lights and the full moon helped tremendously.
We were just having breakfast when we were approaching the Guatemala / El Salvador border. The Guatemalan Navy came close, checked us out but never boarded us. Thankful not to have to stop we continued onwards. The coast here is wonderful, green lush forest of various types of trees. We had the current pushing us and it looked like we would make it for the right time to cross the bar at a high slack tide. Unfortunately we were out by an hour. We had to anchor out in the open. No problem! We had a calm night with small swells and just enough breeze to keep us pointed in the right direction to keep the boat from rocking.
Twenty-three hours later we were crossing the bar into the most gorgeous estuary. We met our pilot at the point required and followed the seadoo over the bar. Surfing. Great fun.
The description of this place would be WOW! We awake to the back drop of two volcanoes, very lush vegetation and wild parrots. Colourful parrots, doves cooing ever so loudly but NO DISCOS, tranquil and quiet.
We have befriended the cook and food and bar manager. (Seems to be a trend with us) Maybe it’s the cookbook of our travels we plan to write that draw us to these people. Anyways, we have hired them to take us around El Salvador on Monday and Tuesday. They can use the extra money and it is less than a tour and we will learn through the eyes of the people that live here.
Last night we learnt a little about the history and politics of El Salvador.
El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America. It has the third largest economy, but growth has been minimal in recent years.
The people seem to be genuinely happy with the new President as he is trying to make life easier for the people; starting with the future, the children. Education has becoming a high priority. It has however a long ways to go as it is expensive to equip a child with uniforms and books. The average wage is $1.00 per hour. It was explained to us that when El Salvador took the US dollar in 2001 as its money, the people suffered. They have not yet caught up to the standard of living that they had before.
Money sent home from El Salvadorians that live abroad is creating a boom in everything from commerce to construction. New resorts are popping up along the coast with families returning home. Crime is prevalent but in the seedy tough neighborhoods. No different than any city in the US or Canada.
El Salvador has emerged from a decade long civil war, and various natural disasters. They had war, two major hurricanes and some earthquakes but the people are resilient. The US government pumped millions of dollars into the Salvadoran military when in 1985 it was concerned with the Nicaraguan social revolution. (Regan’s era)
The influence of the US is very apparent. No comment on how it is perceived. I am sure you can guess.
We met a Canadian couple and boarded a chicken bus to go to the nearby town of Zacatecaluca “Zacate” to the locals. This meant taking a bus to a stop, walking up over a hill over to another highway, catching a bus with actual chickens in ladies hand bags to the town. Once we were at the town we got off and proceeded to head to the local market. Always interesting. El Salvador has a national dish called Pupusas. This food is made by filling a mesa ball with beans, cheese, chicken, pork or fish then carefully shaping it into a tortilla. It is grilled and served with tomato sauce and cabbage. The cost for 4 of these and four bottles of pop was $3.00. It was a meal for the four of us.
The way back was the reverse. As we were ready to get off the bus, I notice the lady directly across from me bent over and she was either having a miscarriage or a baby. Tears were streaming from her. I asked if she needed a doctor. (In Spanish) I wanted to get a taxi for her but there was no way to call for one. She would have to climb onto another bus to get to the hospital. I felt helpless. A male was helping her stand and get to where she needed to be but it was frustrating to not be able to help.
The music on the bus, you guessed it Disco. I now just have to chuckle when I hear disco. I guess it will never die.
I now have a lot of editing to do with pictures, stay attuned for them on the blog in the photo albums within the next few weeks.