If you know the difference between a troglophile and a trogloxene, a stalactite and a stalagmite, then the North end of Vancouver Island is a place you want to visit. As we entered Bull Harbour on Hope Island we could see the caves caused by the erosion of limestone. I didn’t have the guts to boat into the caves. Waves hit hard against the entrances.
Bull Harbour was once a Coast Guard Station with several houses. Approximately 10 years ago with the advancement of rescue techniques the land was returned to the tribe from Alert Bay and the facility was relocated to Port Hardy. The government still maintains the roads, street lights, dock, water facilities, generators etc to operate the 7 homes. These homes are used as cottages. Only 2 families live full time. One, being the white caretaker that cuts the lawns and maintains the generator. Now I said government. That would be the Canadian taxpayer through monies given to Native affairs. If the families there seemed to be fishing and gathering for the winter months I might not be so derogatory. They are paid their treaty money and cannot even maintain their properties. They do make $5.00 /pp to walk to Roller beach from the boaters arriving to the island. We then had to bite our tongues as we listen how the government squatted on their land and they are the rightful keepers of the land. We won’t mention the garbage in their yards. Not cynical! Anyways we stayed anchored a few days and worked on teak before continuing to Port Hardy.

Port Hardy is a major service centre for fisherman both commercially and sportsfishing. We were surrounded by caught Halibut, salmon and various rockfish. We managed to catch 3 chinooks in 15 mins. each weighing 15 lbs. . Enough to fill the freezer. At the docks neighbouring boats give away fish that are over their limits. We scored halibut, blackcod and lingcod.

We spent 2 days in Port Hardy reprovisioning, doing laundry and touring town.

The local museum features exhibits depicting life in the area. It was quite interesting.

We ventured south and stayed the evening at Double Bay on Hanson Island. We would depart the next day to Port McNeil to pick up Elaine and Jim.

Once Jim and Elaine were aboard we headed to Alert Bay and decided the few days spent with them would be fishing and learning about the natives.

We ventured out towards Farewell Harbour. We were interrupted with a 45 min show by Houdini and her calf. Houdini is a resident Humpback Whale. She was given this name as she has birthed a calf every year for the past 3 years which we were told by the Whale Police! -Yes taxpayers we have them. "THEY MAKE SURE BOATERS DON'T GET TO CLOSE! "

Tell that to the Orca #39 (as we were told)that came up beside our boat today! Later in the story! Pictures included! Anyways back to Houdini. She and the calf flipper slapped, breached and lobtailed to our delight. It sure beats the discovery channel.
We fished and caught several that were too small to keep.
Once at Farewell Harbour we hiked through the forest. It was nice to get some exercise.
The next morning we headed out to check out the Chiefs Bathtub and Pictographs. According to native forelore to become a real chief ,the candidate had to sit in this bathtub four times a day for four days as the cold waters of the tide washed in. The bathtub is a rock which through wave motion has been sculpted out. We continued on to Monks Wall an abandoned mission but could not get access to land due to low tides. Mamalilaculla would be the next stop. An abandon site. In 1921 this was the site of the "Christmas Potlatch " the last great Indian potlatch on the coast Potlaches had been banned since 1884, a number of the participants were jailed. This community remained until the 1960's.
Alert Bay would be our next destination were we took in a traditional dance performance. We bid Elaine and Jim farewell and are now continuing onto the next portion or our trip. I will have new pictures on the blog the next place I can steel free wifi! You never know where that will be.