Kuna Woman in traditional clothing selling Molas

Happy Easter to everyone.
This week had us implicated with organized get togethers. We have not been involved much with other boaters on the Pacific side as they were far and few between as we headed south by ourselves. Now we find ourselves amongst 150 other boaters that come from all around the world; the majority coming from France or the United States. There is a contingency from Canada and surprisingly mostly from BC.
We finally met up with fellow boaters from Calgary, Stan and Lynn Holmer who have been traveling the world since 2004. We knew of them but had never met them over the years. As it would be they remembered us from the days we attended St Peter's in Calgary. It is truly a small world.
We have now ventured further south in the Kuna Yala and the people are more traditional. The boaters fewer. The Kunas are accepting of visitors and have tried very hard to learn English. These people are physically small, very healthy and live long lives. They are peaceful, non aggressive and crime is rare.
The Kuna number around 55,000. They are a very determined nation and are united within a strict hierarchy of tribal leaders. Each village has 3 chiefs who hold the highest authority at village level. 3 high chiefs rule the nation as a whole, with one being elected supreme leader to deal with the Panamanian government.
These chiefs also hold the spiritualism, medicinal knowledge and history of the people. (We visited a village that has chosen not to be traditional, the western world shows in the tv sets, clothing. The chief here holds no power and in fact has proclaimed Mormon as his faith.)
The mainstay of the Kuna economy is coconuts, lobster, crab and octopus sales caught by the Kuna skin-divers.
The women make money selling molas. These beautiful appliqués are intricately made by sewing and cutting different layers of colourful cloth. Each Mola is unique and they usually show abstracted forms of birds, animals, or marine life.
Kuna Yala is a matrilineal society. The women control the money and the husbands move into the women's family compound.
Traditional Kuna villages are picturesque, clean and blend into the landscape. The huts are made from fast growing materials like bamboo. The floors are slightly elevated with compacted sand while the walls are bamboo cane. The roof is artistically fabricated from a special palm leaf found in the jungle. There are no nails; everything is fastened by jungle creepers. The roofs have a least 15 year expectancy. We observed a man making many trips into the jungle to obtain the palms needed for the palapa he was building.
Hut interiors are sparse with no furniture. Hammocks are hung to be used for lounging or sleeping in.
There are two oversize huts that are used as the "congress" or town hall. The other hut is the "chichi" A ritual intoxicating brew is made here for spiritual events. The spiritual event happens but twice a year but takes several months to prepare.
The dress of the women is very unique. They wear colourful molas, glass beads around their arms and legs, black face paint and gold nose rings, earrings and breastplates. We have seen a rare man wearing the traditional loin cloth and beads. When we have seen them it has been while they were fishing. They tend to be dressed in shorts and t-shirts, even in the traditional villages.
There are transvestites in Kuna Yala. They dress like the women with beads on the arm and legs. We were told there is no stigma they process both spirits.
Cayucos are the most common form of transportation in the San Blas. These are narrow dugout canoes with sails attached. Every morning at sunrise fleets of dugouts head to the mainland to do some farming. Most cultivate yucca, plantains, breadfruit and bananas. They return around 1300hr. We were told that there was an explosion of motors until the price of gas went up and they are going back to their traditional boats. There are no cars, buses the waterway is the only way with the exception of planes that will take them inland to Panama City.
We are currently anchored in Snug Harbor where a traditional cemetery exists. I can see it from where we are but I am looking forward to visiting this unique site still do not have internet so the many pictures showing the culture of these wonderful people will be added in the future. Please go back to see if there are any additions. Currently it looks like we could be 2 weeks before we are in Cartenegna with internet.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com/